1970 Rover 3500 - EMF
- Thread starter testrider
- Start date
testrider
Active Member
Well the MOT test was last week, and as you may have read elsewhere on the forum it failed on the rubber bush in the top link on the rear suspension. I've now replaced them on both sides with some Superflex ones and I can get my year's ticket when they retest it tomorrow.
happy days
Active Member
Well done Paul, roll on the summer
The tester is just covering his backside . I though the MOT was only proof the car complied with all requirements on the day of the test so how much brake pad can it need ?
On modern cars you get comments like - can't check sills etc - covered by underpanel ,What will they do when the car is 15 years old and the sills really are rotten ?
On modern cars you get comments like - can't check sills etc - covered by underpanel ,What will they do when the car is 15 years old and the sills really are rotten ?
testrider
Active Member
Seeing as the MOT was passed I thought it was high time to take it to pieces again! 
When I did the top end rebuild about 3 years back I didn't have time to get the inlet manifold and rocker covers painted before I needed it back on the road and I've never quite found the time to do it until now.
The engine looks a bit shabby compared to the rest of the car now as you can see here.
I tried not to make a mess when draining the coolant, but neither the radiator drain plug nor the block taps would open (which way are the meant to turn?) so it I had to pull the bottom hose off and spill coolant everywhere instead.
Manifold off the car and on the bench - time to strip it down.
Oops, no jiggle pin here, that's probably why I can occasionally hear gurgling when driving along.
All the parts off now and only one snapped bolt on the Otter switch collar which will need helicoiling.
I'd like to have it chemical cleaned to make sure the water ways are clear, any reason why this wouldn't be a good idea? Then the plan is to have it, the rocker covers and a few other bits powder coated.
Some questions for the board,
Why is the a shim steel tube on each of the carburettor gaskets?
What does this tube and plastic plug do on the side of the carburettor elbow?
And lastly, what's this bracket for under the crank case vent pipe on the left hand carb?
When I did the top end rebuild about 3 years back I didn't have time to get the inlet manifold and rocker covers painted before I needed it back on the road and I've never quite found the time to do it until now.
The engine looks a bit shabby compared to the rest of the car now as you can see here.
I tried not to make a mess when draining the coolant, but neither the radiator drain plug nor the block taps would open (which way are the meant to turn?) so it I had to pull the bottom hose off and spill coolant everywhere instead.
Manifold off the car and on the bench - time to strip it down.
Oops, no jiggle pin here, that's probably why I can occasionally hear gurgling when driving along.
All the parts off now and only one snapped bolt on the Otter switch collar which will need helicoiling.
I'd like to have it chemical cleaned to make sure the water ways are clear, any reason why this wouldn't be a good idea? Then the plan is to have it, the rocker covers and a few other bits powder coated.
Some questions for the board,
Why is the a shim steel tube on each of the carburettor gaskets?
What does this tube and plastic plug do on the side of the carburettor elbow?
And lastly, what's this bracket for under the crank case vent pipe on the left hand carb?