2200TC Project

Don't buy a brand new cylinder, it'll be Chinese. Get yours reconditioned with a stainless steel sleeve in the bore. Then you'll only ever have to replace the seals should they need it.
Past Parts in Suffolk will do the job on yours or Mark Gray should be able to do you an exchange unit which has had the same treatment.

I will certainly consider that once I have it removed. Thanks RM.
 
I was thinking I was near the final hurdle, but this Clutch Master Cylinder has me stumped. I know - get the "Real Manual", but does another £80 spent tell me how to remove it? Any guidance from our esteemed members would be appreciated. I did trawl the forum last night looking for a detailed description, but found nothing. This, the new coil, a new battery and I'm hoping to be done...for now!!
 
The Rover manual is very good and does go into detail with pretty much every operation.
Having said that, the master cylinder removal goes something like this:

(1) Drain fluid from clutch system using the bleed valve in the slave cylinder.

(2) Under the dashboard loosen and remove the trunnion lock nut and screw the threaded portion of the pushrod through the trunnion until it is completely disengaged from the clutch pedal.

(3) In the engine bay: Remove hydraulic line from master cylinder.

(4) Remove nuts securing master cylinder to bulkhead.

(5) Pull master cylinder towards front of car and remove.

Refitting:

Mostly reversal of the above. Bear in mind you’ll want to offer up the master cylinder in the engine bay, dive under the dashboard and guide the pushrod into the trunnion on the clutch pedal. Once you have a couple of threads caught fit nuts and mount cylinder fully.

Refill with DOT4 brake fluid and bleed system (you may need help for this as it’s a bit of a bugger.

Adjust clutch pedal height as per manual.

Job done.
 
The Rover manual is very good and does go into detail with pretty much every operation.
Having said that, the master cylinder removal goes something like this:

(1) Drain fluid from clutch system using the bleed valve in the slave cylinder.

(2) Under the dashboard loosen and remove the trunnion lock nut and screw the threaded portion of the pushrod through the trunnion until it is completely disengaged from the clutch pedal.

(3) In the engine bay: Remove hydraulic line from master cylinder.

(4) Remove nuts securing master cylinder to bulkhead.

(5) Pull master cylinder towards front of car and remove.

Refitting:

Mostly reversal of the above. Bear in mind you’ll want to offer up the master cylinder in the engine bay, dive under the dashboard and guide the pushrod into the trunnion on the clutch pedal. Once you have a couple of threads caught fit nuts and mount cylinder fully.

Refill with DOT4 brake fluid and bleed system (you may need help for this as it’s a bit of a bugger.

Adjust clutch pedal height as per manual.

Job done.

Steve you're a gent. And you must have done Mrs Beaton's typing course! Takes me a week to write a sentence. lol
I was on the right track, but step 2 was missing, that's what I need to do. Thanks again.
 
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So far

Engine bay cleaning ongoing but pretty nice.
Removed Exhaust Manifold and Carbs. New gaskets, cleaned thoroughly and replaced old and missing nuts on both. Wrong rubber carb mountings sent, running on old ones for now. Refitted and filled SU Oil to correct level.
Fixed the Exhaust at the first connection, one of the bolts was bent, hack-sawed through it and replaced.
Restored the Airfilter housing, new Airfilter. Let's get her running first then maybe I'll look at chalky's k&n

Drained Oil, new Filter, new Oil. new Sump Nut/washer
New Plugs correctly gapped, HT's, Distributor cap, Points, Coil. Battery( next purchase ).
Black caps and breather on rocker cover restored and spray painted (rubbers in good enough nick for now, wrong size top domed nuts sent)
New vacuum pipes, new Clutch Slave and Master rebuilt (almost thanks steve)

Clay Bar Kit on the bodywork - couple of times
Compounded and Buffed and Polished couple of times
Autosoled all the stainless trim, bumpers, hub caps, couple of times. (watch out for that little groove in the stainless along the roof line, it gets crusty). Brushed and cleaned around the door glass and quarter lights until spotless inside and out then polished

Washed out the interior three times. Method. And seats are not Leather.

Nice hot day and/or heated Garage
1 Large Good Quality Spray Bottle
20 squirts Oxi Vanish Stain Remover
1 or 2 Caps of Vanish Carpet Shampoo
1/2 Cap of multipurpose Disinfectant
Warm Water to the top.
1 x Old Vacuum Cleaner
1x Good Absorbent Kitchen Roll not the flimsy stuff.

Shake the Bottle well but not too vigorously. Nice blue liquid.
Spray each seat ( doing one at a time) give it a good soaking, do the surrounding carpet and door panels too if you wish. This is just round 1.
Leave to soak for 20-30 minutes.
Vac on full blast, no brush, and suck all the water out of the seats/carpets. Take your time, and get as much wet off that you can.
Now get a handful of Kitchen Roll and Mop the Seats first, then the Carpets, watch the filth come off!!

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That's one done, do the others at your leisure. I repeated the whole process three times. Up to you! Windows open and electric fan heater on.

Carburetor bottles buffed with Autosol. Nice, I'll grab one off in a minute and take a photo. Cant get to the stainless on the Exhaust until I get it out of the garage.
New s/t screws and rubber feet for the Grille and headlight surrounds, and silver paint on the detail. More cleaning around and rust removal and treatment in that area. Replaced the radiator nuts/washers with new ones and new cap.
Did I mention cleaning? Anything for the Dishwasher?

It's not looking bad, inside and out. Can't wait to get it out of the garage...to find out what else needs doing. I know the Gear selection is a bit sloppy, I think I know someone who can do it for me. And of course that Bearings job, then the Brakes, and I will replace the wheel bearings, I want to try zx1 grease on those, then shocks. Oh and and the engine mounts, that I should have done when the manifold was off! rollseyes.

Thanks to all for the help!

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It's a bit blurry.
 
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Yes, that’s pretty well hidden in there.

Did a bit of Olga Korbut over the passenger seat and viola!! Five minute job, I measured the distance on the locknut at 2cm before extraction. The bad news is that the union nut is rock solid, looks like it was x-threaded. The nut has lost it corners cant get anything on it!

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Cheers Steve.
 
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Bit of Sun works wonders. Rebuild Kit Done, I have decided to leave the seized end alone for now, I don't think it's leaking from there. I'll reinstall tomorrow
 
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A bit of Flu slowed my progress, but I'm on the mend. And at last a reply from p6 club, so all's not lost on that front. Maybe I'll have a Workshop Manual for the Summer. But they printed my name "Brain" in the magazine . Grumble grumble...
 
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I use the PAGID Dot 4. Comes in litre bottles at a decent price (just over a tenner maybe), but seems to rate highly judging by online reviews. Certainly stands up to my heavy Sunday pedal-stamping actions in my MX5...
 
I use the PAGID Dot 4. Comes in litre bottles at a decent price (just over a tenner maybe), but seems to rate highly judging by online reviews. Certainly stands up to my heavy Sunday pedal-stamping actions in my MX5...

Thanks Michael, I'm just waiting for the Taxi to go into town! And more replies from P6 Club, great stuff it's all happening today!
 
Brian, Sincere apologies for the typo which was down to me, I appreciate it must have been irritating as a new member to see your name spelt incorrectly. I have added you as a new member again in the April edition and this time spelt your name correctly! Your thread on here would make a great article for the magazine so if you were happy to collate the text and add some pictures it would make a great feature which I'd be very happy to publish.
 
Brian, Sincere apologies for the typo which was down to me, I appreciate it must have been irritating as a new member to see your name spelt incorrectly. I have added you as a new member again in the April edition and this time spelt your name correctly! Your thread on here would make a great article for the magazine so if you were happy to collate the text and add some pictures it would make a great feature which I'd be very happy to publish.

No problems at all there! Gosh I'm chuffed.crop.jpg

This is she. Taken September 2021, the morning of arrival, just off the delivery truck. Still being a bit shy!
 
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Good day all.

Out of the garage for the first time in 6 months, got the bonnet back on, clutch bleeding being a bit troublesome, and my son/assistant is off sick. I have the new battery in, and the new coil. Gave the engine a couple of brief spins, not quite right there. I also took a handful of photos but the poor camera on my phone and strong sunlight relegated them to the bin. Only one survived. Sans airbox, still not happy with how it looks and assembles, maybe time for those k&n's.
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BrianMac123 said:
Sans airbox, still not happy with how it looks and assembles, maybe time for those k&n's.

I fitted velocity stacks to mine. Was never happy with the right angle edge on the intake of the HIF6s in this application. Earlier 2" HS type carbs had stub stacks built into the air cleaner adaptor plates, but the HIFs have nothing. So I got some decent length stacks and put motorbike filter socks over them.

When refitted to the new blueprinted engine, I will probably come up with a more comprehensive filter solution, but they gave very good performance and looked quite appealing too (to my eye)

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Thanks RR, that might be the solution.
The things you see when looking at photos. ^ The bonnet support was off the next day, I got the kinks out with a large hammer and a hunk of wood, then rotary wire brushed and rust killer and spray painted and refitted.
Behind the grilles and front valence need some work. I removed the grilles, then the fog lights from front bumper, rattle rattle. Removed front bumper, new gaiters ordered. Removed the over-riders phew! Removed l/s bumper iron and restored as above. Right side being awkward, and they all need doing. I removed the wing to valence clasps, new ones ordered. One side was fixed and needs some work, and miserable today, so I won't get the valence off just yet. I gave the bumper a good tidy up front and back.
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I have the front off it, all nicely anti rust treated and spray painted. well as best I could. Just waiting for the new gaiters and wing clasps to reassemble. I have the urge to spray paint the valence now thats it's off and all nicely cleaned and prepped, Anyone know of a Richelieu Red rattle can or similar? Seems a bit silly not to, until I can get the whole car done!
 
If you take the paint code to a motor factors that mixes paint they will make up a can for you. Will be a little 'bright' as car will have faded, but should be close. Other advantage is that the cans supplied are usually easy to use.... not a spray gun easy, but better than std cans (in my experience at least, they give a decent fan spray pattern, but still are a bit delivery heavy). If you are doing a whole panel it should be easy enough, esp off the car.
 
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