My Rover

[SydneyRoverP6B]

rottenlungs wrote,...

Ron

Top work on the booster - it looks sharp indeed with the drum painted.. With my car the booster is effective, but sometimes the pedal seems hard for a split second like a valve is slightly sluggish somewhere. If I tap the pedal it doesn`t really want to move, but if I apply a typical brake force, it works fine. As a result, I`ve been thinking about rebuilding it at some point soonish. Did you find the parts easy to get?

Thanks James. What you describe could be down to the air control piston not moving as freely as it should. I fitted a NOS Lockheed kit that I had purchased some years ago, but in reality the only parts that need changing are the rubber seals within the slave cylinder. The gaskets between the slave cylinder and the vacuum chamber and between the slave cylinder and the air control valve can be made up. The diaphragm within the vacuum chamber is quite substantial and of excellent quality, so there should be no problem in using it again. It should be possible to match the seals with what is available at your local Brake centre. When you assemble it, use only brake fluid or very thin Girling grease (purple in colour) as a lubricant else the air control piston seal may stick and then the brakes won't come off any time soon.

JVY wrote,...

Good mod Ron. I still have original sealed beams all round on my car. The full beam is OK (possibly brighter than some modern cars). However, the dipped beam is pretty miserable. So, I'm sure having two 55W dipped beams with coupled with modern halogen lamps, must make quite a significant difference.

BTW, good bug collection

Thanks Steve,. Yes the 60W low beams are a big improvement over the original 37.5W sealed units. I'll post some night photos in the coming days, hopefully they will turn out ok. Glad you like my bug collection, every time I venture out I come back with more. I recall that an Entomologist can determine the type of insect by the splatter pattern that is left on the windscreen. Apparently, each is different.

Ron.

 

[SydneyRoverP6B]

I have taken a few night shots with mixed success.

As some meet the criteria of "A view from the windscreen", I'll also include those in the thread of the same name.

On a quiet road with the sun setting in the west, my new low beam 60W lights show the way.

Instruments in green and blue provide comfort in a void of black.

Not including the side lights, 310W of light shine into the darkness with clouds streaking across the western sky. On a straight road, reflectors over 1km away are illuminated.

Side lights. Still only the standard 6W bulbs, I am looking to follow Mick's lead and install some LED items in the not too distant.

Low beam lights

All four headlights.

Ron.

 

[The Rovering Member]

"Something wicked this way comes."

 

[FrazzleTC]

Those lights are very impressive! I often think I should upgrade the lights on my 2000, but as I tend to use it the most during the summer, lights aren't quite as much of an issue as they would be if I lived at home all the time. I think I'll upgrade to Halogens this year.

 

[SydneyRoverP6B]

Thanks Fraser

Replacing the Lucas low beam 37.5W sealed units with 60W halogen lights does make a world of difference. The quality of the reflector and the type of halogen bulb used will also play their part in how effective the lights are.

Ron.

 

[SydneyRoverP6B]

So this morning I removed the radiator, less than two years since it was fitted and only some 39,000 Miles (63,000km) of service. To say that I am less than pleased is an understatement.

I have a feeling that the original and replacement 2 row cores may well have had tubes of larger cross sectional area and in turn manufactured from thicker brass which would in theory improve their resistance to cracking, all things being equal. They certainly provided many more years of service compared to the 3 row cores.

Coolant level prior to draining, with no change since it was last filled.

Radiator removed. At least half a dozen tubes exhibited coolant weeps along with the base of each end tank. In the case of the latter, I can’t determine exactly where it is actually leaking from.

The coolant that has somehow leaked from the base of the end tank. Contrast a nice and shiny brass interior with no hint of corrosion. I have had the inbuilt transmission cooler completely removed, as its services are now redundant.

The new radiator built around my Rover’s original end tanks. The business that removed the transmission cooler on this one left the spigots although both are sealed. Nothing remains to be seen on the inside.

The captured nut into which threads the bolt that retains the n/s end tank to the base unit.

The original grommet with its steel central insert fits between the above captured nut bracket. I don’t really see how this grommet will provide cushioning for the radiator. I suspect that the grommet is there only to fill out the space between the plates. According to the parts book, not all Rovers were fitted with this arrangement, although no specifics are provided.


I considered placing pieces of soft rubber on top of each captured nut plate but decided against it on the basis that they may allow vibration of the radiator to occur which might be just as damaging if not worse compared to having it solid mounted.

.

I did however fit an earth strap ensuring good contact between the bracket, strap and base unit. I checked the coolant for stray currents prior to removing the radiator, but the readings were very inconclusive. So if they had been there and were partly or wholly responsible for the core damage, the strap will now ensure that a repeat does not occur.

I filled the radiator with a 33% mix of Penrite AF/AB. Starting the engine saw an immediate drop in the level which was to be expected, so more coolant was added bringing the level to the base of the filler neck. The cap was fitted and road testing revealed no leaks.

Tomorrow I shall remove the cap once more, start the engine and top the level up, as any air that was within the system will now be sitting above the coolant in the radiator. After that I won’t (or shouldn’t) need to touch the system again until it is time to change the coolant in around another 36,000 Miles (60,000km).

Ron.

 

[rockdemon]

That's not good is it. Good job your on top of the maintenance as always...


You could shortcut the filling by undoing the top heater matrix hose momentarily?

Rich

 

[SydneyRoverP6B]

rockdemon wrote,...

That's not good is it. Good job your on top of the maintenance as always...


You could shortcut the filling by undoing the top heater matrix hose momentarily?

I always keep am eye on things Rich... :wink:

Not sure I follow the idea of releasing the top heater matrix hose... :? That is the return path for the coolant, so air will migrate there prior to moving back to the engine, but releasing the hose will see a coolant loss and more air being allowed to enter, so I don't really see a benefit, sorry.

Filling the system this way I have never had a problem with air remaining trapped for more than a day or so. Once the system is filled and you go for a drive, sitting overnight will see any air travel to the radiator, as air will always travel to the highest point. Next day top up the radiator and job done.

Ron.

 

[rockdemon]

each to their own obviously, but when ive done that a load of air hisses out then when coolant starts to flow do it up job done. our old family mechanic showed me that on the first ever v8 p6 i saw many years ago!

 

[SydneyRoverP6B]

Hi Rich,

If the heater matrix has been out, then I can see that may be useful in expediating the air bleeding process, but the coolant level would still need checking and and quite likely topping up the following day.

Ron.

 

[SydneyRoverP6B]

The winder mechanism within the o/s front door, which moves the window within the frame seized last October, so finally the time had arrived for its replacement. It itself had been a second hand replacement for the original, which had seen the spring break during 1996. This time the spring was fine, rather it was the gear shaft assembly, which was the problem.

As the window was up at the time and could not be lowered in order to remove the frame, the winder mechanism rods had to be cut through so as to allow the window to drop down. I used a cutting wheel on the Dremel and it worked a treat.

First rod cut through.

Second rod cut through with window now down.

Frame removed.

The workshop manual says to remove the winder mechanism first and then to remove the frame. Assembly is the reverse. This however as far as I can see is not possible as there is a bracket on the frame, which fits across the top of the winder mechanism preventing it from being lifted out. In addition, the mechanism slides into the channel on the base of the window; again this cannot be removed without taking the frame out first.

The old winder mechanism and the NOS replacement.


The following photo is actually of the n/s door frame, which is now being prepared to go into my freshly painted Saffron door. I’ll remove the brown door first, hang the Saffron door and then fit the frame. I’ll document that process in due course.

Window frame complete with window with NOS winder mechanism being fitted.

Mechanism fitted, awaiting its 5 retention bolts.

The reverse side showing the aforementioned bracket which prevents a straightforward removal. The mechanism needs to be manoeuvred between the two brackets. This is much easier said than done.

Frame complete with window and mechanism refitted into door.

All finished. My previous window winder handle had lost its knob, so I fitted a NOS item that I had. I hadn’t opened the box that it came in until now, so I was surprised to see that it was a series 1 car. Have to say that to me the quality looks superior to the series 2 handles, so I was more than happy to fit it.

Ron.

 

[FrazzleTC]

Looks like a good job, Ron! I've got one rear window which is becoming increasingly difficult to wind up and down, so I'll need to take the doorcard off to investigate soon! The winders on the series 1 seem much nicer that those on the series 2. My 3500 came with a box which had two later winders that had sheered! The earlier ones seem to be much better quality.

 

[SydneyRoverP6B]

Thanks Fraser,

A window which is becoming stiff to wind up or down can usually be attributed to either a winder mechansim which needs greasing, a spring which is starting to fail or corrosion within the gear shaft assembly.
I recall that when I first pulled the door cards off way back in 1988 and greased everything, the operation was much improved. Gaining access is a real pain though, the door ports are quite small and in the wrong place for where you need to go.

Another problem that it can also be is the channel along the base of the window has expanded through corrosion to the point that it is fouling against the mechansim rods.

Ron.

 

[SydneyRoverP6B]

Last weekend I started work on rebuilding my n/s Saffron doors. Having removed the Brown front door to start, I placed the lower section of the door onto the hinges, with assembly proceeding from here. The frame was fitted with a NOS window regulator as the original was showing signs of impending problems within the gear shaft assembly.


Hinges ready for the Saffron door.


I also decided to fit NOS door handles to both doors, given the originals had some corrosion on the underside directly above the push button, along with some crazing, although minor upon the top surface.


Original push button, lock, door handle and a NOS front door handle.


The push button, lock and handle require fitting prior to installation of the frame.


Push button and lock retained by clips.


I had replaced the quarter window rubber during the late 1980s, and fortunately it had remained in excellent condition. The door-to-window rubber though was different story. The original was used as a template so I could trim the replacement accordingly.


New rubber trimmed with screw holes punched ready for fitting.



Front door complete.


The following day I commenced on the rear door. Fortunately the window regulator was in fine condition, leaving only the quarter window to have a new rubber fitted


Window frame complete and ready to go.



Door positioned showing seal riveted in place.




Rear door waits for rebuilding.




I was very pleased with the alignment.



In the same style as the front door, a NOS door handle was fitted along with a new door-to-window rubber.


With the doors rebuilt the only job remaining was the installation of the trim clips and some NOS stainless steel strips.



Nice even gaps.



All nicely aligned.






All finished.


Ron.

 

[rottenlungs]

Looks the business, Ron. Very clean and tidy. Where did you get the door handles from?

 

[Willy Eckerslyke]

Top work there!
I haven't seen lock retaining clips like that before - only L shaped ones with a slight curve so they tighten as you flip them over.

 

[rockdemon]

Top notch

 

[SydneyRoverP6B]

Appreciate the positive feedback gents

rottenlungs wrote,...

Where did you get the door handles from?

Hi RL,

They cropped up on ebay about 6 years ago, and were the only complete set that I can recall ever seeing. Their plastic bags featured Unipart along with Austin Rover stickers. The former had a lot of typed information including the date 16/9/87. So I assume that they may have been made that year.


Willy Eckerslyke wrote,...

I haven't seen lock retaining clips like that before - only L shaped ones with a slight curve so they tighten as you flip them over.

Hi Willy,

Yes the parts book and the workshop manual only show the type which you describe. It was quite straight forward to fit, and once in the lock is movement free and very secure.

Ron.

 

[billoddie]

Shes looking good Ron!!

 

[SydneyRoverP6B]

Thanks Brenten I am very pleased with it all. The fellow who fitted the NOS door skins did a top job, then I just fine tuned the location of each door, took out a shim here, lowered a lock there etc.

Ron.