Pertronix Ignitor

[Brian-Northampton]

I knew you wouldn't be disappointed Stan, and no more maintenance!

I've been well happy with mine for years.

Also... glad you sorted out wiring in your tacho, always interesting on a P6 working out which wiring model they used in the build!

Bri.

 

[DaveHerns]

The piece of perspex might be to set the gap between the magnet sleeve and the sensor ?

 

[vaultsman]

I knew you wouldn't be disappointed Stan, and no more maintenance!

I've been well happy with mine for years.

Also... glad you sorted out wiring in your tacho, always interesting on a P6 working out which wiring model they used in the build!

Bri.

Thanks Bri,

The points I took out (NOS Lucas) had only been in about 2500 miles but were already developing the pip and crater - wasn't using a Lucas condensor though!

This is the relevant bit of my wiring diagram by the way:
Distributor - 22
Tacho - 37
Coil - 44
Ballast - 45


Cheers,

 

[vaultsman]

The piece of perspex might be to set the gap between the magnet sleeve and the sensor ?

Hi Dave,

There's no mention of it at all in the instructions but from a quick browse around the net, you're right I think. It seems though that the gap's not critical - anywhere from 10 to 75 thou will work OK and variations won't affect the dwell. There's no gap adjustment provided on the module mounting plate anyway though - the 2 screws go through exact size holes to hold it to the baseplate.

I've just been out and checked my gap at 18 thou, the perspex measuring 32 thou.

 

[darth sidious]

Thanks Bri,

The points I took out (NOS Lucas) had only been in about 2500 miles but were already developing the pip and crater - wasn't using a Lucas condensor though!

This is the relevant bit of my wiring diagram by the way:
Distributor - 22
Tacho - 37
Coil - 44
Ballast - 45


Cheers,

Ah, I see from that diagram they (Rovers) went back to wiring the tacho between the coil -ve and distributor. Seems the wiring varies considerably from car to car, even on the same model of car!

 

[vaultsman]

Thanks Bri,

The points I took out (NOS Lucas) had only been in about 2500 miles but were already developing the pip and crater - wasn't using a Lucas condensor though!

This is the relevant bit of my wiring diagram by the way:
Distributor - 22
Tacho - 37
Coil - 44
Ballast - 45


Cheers,

Ah, I see from that diagram they (Rovers) went back to wiring the tacho between the coil -ve and distributor. Seems the wiring varies considerably from car to car, even on the same model of car!

According to the WM it seems the change point was for chassis suffix D for the 3500 and C for the 3500S (mine's an S and suffix C). Might not be as clear-cut as that though!

 

[ghce]

Ordered an Ignitor II 9LU-181 and Flame thrower II coil 45011 from The Car Shop in the USA last week, arrived today in good order. I hope to get this fitted ASAP but if not then in the weekend. I received excellent service from them, Total price including airmail freight came to US$178.40, US$48.50 of that being the freight and handling content. I too received the peice of perspex and can find no mention of it in the excellent installation literature that the unit is supplied with.

Graeme

 

[ghce]

Fitted the pertronix Ignitor II unit this afternoon and flame thrower II coil, all a bit of a drama, I decided to by pass the ballast resistor wire as was concerned that the Tacho would not work as this is what all the cct diagrams show(for every model).
I removed instrument panel to access supposed yellow white wire only to find that the tacho wires are white and a white blackstripe, traced the white/black wire only to find that it ends up on the -VE of the coil, this means 3 things 1: Rover can't draw diagrams for sh*t and 2: that the tacho is a voltage sensing device and 3:the the white/ yellow ballast wire comes from somewhere not recorded on the cct diagram and becomes irrelevant to wiring plans. So about 2 hours later I was ready to fit the bits and wire them in, all of which took about 30 minutes including dismantling the distributer to remove the damn OEM points wire gromett.
Car started OK but the idle is now lower and has hesitation on acceleration at 2500 to 3500 rpm so I guess I will have to do the timing as something is not quite right, never had any miss problems with the points.
Unfortunatly this has not cured my hot restart problem so its the Weber 500 or the fuel system causing my ongoing woes , now I will have to wait till the engine cools to put the stroboscope on, bugger, should have done it before I took the car for the drive
I hope this is an improvement on the points but wont know till I have checked the timing coz if it aint the points might yet go back in. :?


Graeme

 

[vaultsman]

Hi Graeme,

If you look at my wiring diagram extract above, certainly on my car the white/yellow wires don't run behind the instrument panel but :

1) From the starter motor to the coil +ve.

and

2) From the end of the white/pink ballast wire to the coil +ve (see photo above as well).

The white/slate wire does indeed run between the tacho and coil -ve, and the white/black wire between the tacho and distributor. The white is indeed the 12V feed to the tacho via fuse 19/20.



If you've still got problems once you've got your timing sorted, I found Marvin Grebow at Pertronix very helpful. Email marving@pertronix.com

Good Luck!

 

[ghce]

I seem to be blessed with a run of bad luck, went to restart the car after it had cooled to re-time the ignition and found that the electric petrol pump has now failed!!!! and car would not start. I often think there is a cosmic plot against me and my p6 :roll:


Graeme

 

[SydneyRoverP6B]

Hello Graeme,

It is typical isn't it. Work on one part of the car and then some other part fails,...very annoying indeed. I don't know why the Webber gives so much aggravation when it comes to hot starting. On a Chev no problem but on the Rover which in essence is a Buick...no joy. Does your engine have an electric fuel pump that you can activate prior to starting so as to fill the float bowl?

Ron.

 

[ghce]

Only the electric pump that failed, so before I can do much else I will have to find a new pump, luckily there is a fuel pump manufacturer here in NZ http://fuelflow.co.nz/FF_103Xo237cfas_uy-iope/ so have contacted them and will be purchasing one from them at a satisfactory rate (we came to a satisfactory price as like me they are one of the very few automotive componant manufacturers left in NZ).


Graeme

 

[ghce]

My car is on a time warp !!!

Well to continuie the saga of my hot restart woes. I went back in time and have been forced to refit my old mechanical AC pump which had been serving time hanging on the garage wall since it's banishment in about 2003 grrrrr electric pump failures, likewise my Strobo timing light which hant been used since about 1999 failed , so now it's of to REPCO to buy a new timing light so I can adjust the ign timing. More fiddling will be required around the AC mechanical unit as I see drips of fuel.....I just hope I dont need a fire extinguisher


Graeme

 

[ghce]

Journey forward to the past Part 2

Purchased new stroboscope checked timing.....Miles and miles out, was a good 2 inches past the "Before " marking on the crank pulley, I am amazed the car had started let alone that I had driven it. Took the beast for a drive and sheer magic ensued, not that there was any thing wrong with the kettering points system that had been there, on a scope it had read 20 KV and looked as good as you could get out the points system.
Pick up seemed a little better low down had a bit more Zip and higher RPM were flawless wit possible a bit more pulling power....However as I had said before there was no perfrmance faults with the points.

On to more significant results.....my hot restart problem seems to be gone!~!!!! this result in no way was due to the pertronix upgrade as the hot restart prob had occured before the electric petrol pump had failed with the pertronix unit in place :? Oh well there can be only one conclusion

Don't put electric fuel pumps under the bonnet

in the process of re running the fuel line to the carb I ran the line directly up from the AC unit thru the engine lifting hook eye and over the inlet manifold and round to the Weber 500 inlet, this takes the fuel line away from the holt exhaust manifold.

Graeme

****EDIT*****
While writing above I had thought about commenting on a slightly elevated temp gauge reading, reading more on the 5 than between the 8 and the 5 where it normally runs....... then it clicked......I had forgot to reconnect the vacum hose to the distributer , so it was off for another drive ( of course) performance was fractionally better and temp reduced to normal running point so 2nd conclusion

The Pertronix up grade is very worth while and for the dollars a reasonable expense

 

[chrisyork]

Now that's a real result to celebrate! Silver linings and clouds etc re the electric pump!

Chris

 

[GrimV8]

Great news

 

[SydneyRoverP6B]

Hello Graeme,

Glad to hear that you have had a result.!! So the electric fuel pump in the engine bay was the problem all along. Will you mount one as a spare under the tank at a later date or just leave the AC to solo on alone?

Ron.

 

[DaveHerns]

Well done
I think I'd rather have an electric pump at the rear than the old AC mechanical - it seems pushers are better than pullers

 

[vaultsman]

Well done
I think I'd rather have an electric pump at the rear than the old AC mechanical - it seems pushers are better than pullers

Probably I've been lucky, but the electric pump has for me always been a solution looking for a problem. My AC's never missed a beat once sorted with a new diaphragm..and no vapourisation problems either...yet!

Touch wood!

 

[ghce]

Hello Graeme,

Glad to hear that you have had a result.!! So the electric fuel pump in the engine bay was the problem all along. Will you mount one as a spare under the tank at a later date or just leave the AC to solo on alone?

Ron.

Hi Ron, yes I am tempted to still fit an electric unit under the tank as prior to the Weber with the SU's I had vapourization issues in slow moving traffic on hot days though I do beleive most of my problems were possibly due to the poor batches of 91 unleaded fuel that initially came to NZ in the 90's. I still like the idea of the electric system but think that were I to go that way it would be best to re-do the complete fuel setup by puting the reserve switch down the back as I use this all the time choiosing to run out before a refill, also rerouting the fuel lines about the engine bay as has been discussed on recent threads. For the moment I will run just the AC unit and see if those old issues are still there or not before I delve furthur into the fuel lines.


Graeme