Thanks everyone - I might start feeling under pressure to keep up the standard now :shock:
I’ll give anything a go
Here’s Sparky’s diff as it came out a few months ago. I have never had any problems with it, no noises, no clunks, so it’s going to get a clean up, paint, and an oil change then goes back in. Wouldn’t it be more sense for the bleed screw to be at the top?
The calipers however, are now easy to get at and it seems too good an opportunity to miss, so having a new set of seals and braded hoses (if I can find them) I got some advice (from the brake section of this forum) and dived in.
Now there’s a complicated looking thing, how did that get there and how do you tell the time with it?
Took it to bits and cleaned it up. The cylinder was perfect, no scoring and no pitting, so a good clean and a wipe with brake fluid was all it got.
The two arrowed bits are NOT in my manual, so it went back together without them. Then it came apart again, and went back together correctly. Good job I took loads of pics.
It was great fun, greasing up all of the bits the manual told me to, then trying to hold them tight enough to force them back together. A couple of bits tried to make a run for it, but were recaptured and eventually joined their compatriots and went back together.
I moved the handbrake lever around a couple of times and noticed that the pawl clicked nicely and the serrated head moved round one tooth every time.
I haven’t gone over the top with polishing it, but have cleaned the rust off the main caliper and protected it with some high temperature enamel. The cover was left as it was because the yellow passivating coating was intact, but covered in baked on crud.
Just one problem! there's two of them!! :shock:
Richard