Steering Box oil seal replacement.

raylish said:
Maybe this is why later boxes had diferent seal arrangements; I am no engineer, but I do think that putting a steel-topped seal into an aluminium casting is asking for trouble, given their different expansion rates!
Click to expand...

I don't think the expansion rates would be the thing that causes problems, the ally casing is going to expand quicker than the steel outer of the seal anyway, and even if it didn't the seal wouldn't be able to exert sufficient pressure to crack the case, but the interaction between the steel and the ally (the same as you often see on the bonnet/boot) won't be helping. I reckon most get cracked when the seals are levered out, or fitted back in, and the effort of winding from lock to lock at a standstill.
 
raylish said:
How about doing as you suggest and also tightening down a jubilee clip hard over the repaired area?
Click to expand...

You could try I suppose, but if you do, just don't tell me about it.......
 
harveyp6 said:
raylish said:
How about doing as you suggest and also tightening down a jubilee clip hard over the repaired area?
Click to expand...

You could try I suppose, but if you do, just don't tell me about it.......
Click to expand...

No problem Harvey - It will remain a secret!
 
Well spotted Harvey, that is indeed a crack in the box photographed above. It's the scrap one I started messing with so won't be reused.
These seals might be more forgiving of cracked casings as they're deeper and rubber cased. One problem with a Jubilee clip is that I can see it interfering with the bulkhead grommet.

(thanks for the payment Ray :) )
 
Willy Eckerslyke said:
Well spotted Harvey, that is indeed a crack in the box photographed above. It's the scrap one I started messing with so won't be reused.
These seals might be more forgiving of cracked casings as they're deeper and rubber cased. One problem with a Jubilee clip is that I can see it interfering with the bulkhead grommet.

(thanks for the payment Ray :) )
Click to expand...

Willy and Harvey, thanks for all your help. These steel sleeved oil seals must have been replaced in later boxes for a reason; perhaps the steel casing transmits lateral loads to this thin-walled aluminium casting at the neck of the input shaft - Maybe these all-rubber seals will allow all the loading to be taken up by the bush, which lies deeper and is surrounded by much thicker alloy?

Anyway, we can live in hope, cant we :!:

ATB Ray
 
I'm about to replace the oil seals in the steering box (which is empty, and below it there is a mess of oil and dirt), but after reading this thread I checked for any cracks, and found one at the upper oil seal.


I guess I risk making the crack bigger if I try to tap out the old oil seal. If I do replace the seal I suppose, based on Harvey's earlier post, that the oil will leak out through the crack if I do not try to fix the crack in some way. Correct?

Is there a big difference in the steering if there is oil in the steering box or not? What about wear if no oil?
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0981_.jpg
    IMG_0981_.jpg
    70.6 KB · Views: 582
The box needs to have oil in it, so I'd be inclined to carefully replace the seal, and then file the crack out to a "V" (without going all the way through, you can also do the end before fitting the new seal, but do the side after), and then fill the "V" with Belzona or similar. They will leak through the crack if you don't do anything with it. Ideally it would be replaced, but if you can't get one, trying to make it oil tight won't make things any worse than having to replace it.
 
Okay, then I'll try that.
I will replace the lower oil seal as well. I've understood that I only need to remove the drop arm to get enough access to the oil seal? Correct?
 
Cooper99 said:
What do you think about welding the crack?
Click to expand...

I think you'd have to be pretty good to do it, although I'm sure there are people out there that could. My worry would be that it distorts and you end up worse off than when you started.
 
Tried several times the past weeks to remove the drop arm to replace the oil seal. It it IMPOSSIBLE to get it off. Despite a puller big enough (two smaller has broken) which I tighten very hard with a long lever until it can't be tightened more, the drop arm refuses to come off. I've tried with heating the arm up and cooling the shaft. Nothing helps. Any suggestions what to do?
 

Attachments

  • IMG_112822.jpg
    IMG_112822.jpg
    69.6 KB · Views: 517
Have you tried putting a lump of hardwood over the end of the puller shaft and then hitting it with a very large hammer?
 
Hi, try giving the drop arm a smite with a hammer whilst loaded up, the same way you would
a steering arm to get a TRE out. If you put the nut back on but leave it a turn or two shy of the
arm you won't get too many large lumps of heavy steel flying about. You could put a blanket
over the puller so it act a shock absorber.

Colin
 
Yes I,ve tried that as well. I use a almost 1 meter long lever, and been hitting the drop arm and puller whilst under load, but nothing helps. Strange! =(
 
I ended up buying a pitman arm puller. It's much more study than most pullers and is specifically made for pulling the steering box arm (AKA pitman arm)
Mine was this make and made good work of two steering boxes already. http://www.amazon.co.uk/Lisle-Pitman-Ar ... arm+puller

The shorter arms, forged C section and heavy duty screw helps really add load. With longer arms you lose some of the force in stretching the arms of the C section.
 
hi dumb question time.... I assume that at least one bit is tapered like a ball joint and has to be separated in a single direction. are you sure ur going the right way
coop
 
You can only pull it the right way. The taper is less pronounced than on ball joints and has large splines so it puts up much more of a fight than ball joint tapers. It doesn't help that it faces down and can get a little corroded.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top