Took the plunge - got some pics now

I've never liked the Kenlowe system of stuffing a capilliary under the rad hose, always seemed to be asking for problems to me! There are two other ways of doing it. First off, next time your rad needs rebuilding get the radiator shop to put a modern type thermostatic switch into the incoming tank. Then you can abandon the existing switching and simply use a standard rad switch from a modern car. Second method is to split the top hose in a straight section and insert an adaptor carrying a boss for a thermostat. This one is from the Demon Tweeks site, but I have seen nice alloy ones as well: http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/products/ProductDetail.asp?cls=MSPORT&pcode=PCTCA0025

Chris
 
SydneyRoverP6B said:
Hello Richard,

Yes it is amazing that at 40 years young, the Rover V8 is still being produced. The new blocks are made under lisence by Cosworth I understand?

The Rover inlet manifold is a 180 degree dual plane low rise design, where each SU carburettor feeds two cyclinders on the adjacent bank and two on the opposite bank. Their combined flow rate meets the requirements of the 4.6 in standard form, which is what mine is, save for the custom ground high torque camshaft.

Modifications to the carburettors include running increased float levels, a change in butterflies and substantially richer needles which were then custom polished to ensure that the air/fuel ratio across the rev range when under load delivered maximum power and torque at all points. This was all done on a rolling road. I provided a new Lucas distributor too, which was regraphed to meet the requirements of advance rate and maximum of the 4.6.

On the dyno, the 4.6 delivered 60% more :shock: power to the rear wheels compared to my 3.5. I was expecting fuel economy to suffer compared to the 3.5, but I was to be very pleasantly surprised.
My 4.6 delivers on average 34% better fuel economy. Country running sees a worst of 25mpg and a best so far of 29mpg. Both were run off at 60 to 70mph average.

With the 3.5, I always had to use lots of choke when first started, and it would often have to remain out for quite some miles, else the engine would cough and splutter. No such problem with the 4.6. I only use the choke to start the engine when cold. Once started, the choke is pushed nearly home, and within 5 to 10 seconds at most is closed completely. I can then drive without any issues at all. The 4.6 and the way it has been set up have totally transformed my Rover making it an infinitely better car.

Does your 4.0 litre Rover still run the standard differential?

Ron.


How many extra ponies do you have under the bonnet?? what was it like to fit in the engine bay and what other mods are on it??
Its nice to see win win stories :D

Graeme
 
I thought I would have a go at the engine bay as it is a bit scruffy under there. I don't know why I do this as I have to change the front shock rubbers for the MOT :shock: , and treat/repair the leather seats :)

When I bought the car, there was no fan shroud on the rad, apart from that (I fitted one cos it looked silly without it) it looked just like this.
071208enginebaysm.jpg

1071208enginesm-1.jpg


Now what I didn't like was

1/. The Brunel type way the fuel regulator was fitted and the place where it was fitted. The inlet pipe comes up the back of the engine and runs across those hot manifolds, then into the regulator. The outlet pipe snakes its way across the manis again and into the side of the carb. Ok it’s a way above the manis but they do make an incredible amount of heat.

2/. Little tatty bits including, the bonnet rubber bonded to the front panel in front of the servo, scratches on the black paintwork which show the body colour through (all over the engine bay), rusty power steering reservoir, red wire running down N/S wing outside of loom, edelbrock sticker (don’t like stickers at all), funny little loop of silicone tubing on the front of the carb, huge hose running from water pump to heater, old water hoses with a total of nine jubilee clips acting as breather pipes, and yellow paint on the inlet manifold bolts?

3/. Front panel, nuts and bolts, and radiator shroud showing signs of surface rust and general tattyness.

I really must get to the wiring on the wiper motor too :eek:)
 
4/ Tatty Insulation on Heater :D

Just wish I had an engine for mine ! I'll have to take a photo of my engine bay, looks lovely with the 820 alloys sat in it.
 
webmaster said:
4/ Tatty Insulation on Heater :D

Just wish I had an engine for mine ! I'll have to take a photo of my engine bay, looks lovely with the 820 alloys sat in it.

I took that off a little while ago and broke it :oops:

Any one got a spare one?
 
ghce responding to a post of mine asked the following question...
by ghce on Sun Apr 12, 2009 10:21 am

SydneyRoverP6B wrote:
Hello Richard,

Yes it is amazing that at 40 years young, the Rover V8 is still being produced. The new blocks are made under lisence by Cosworth I understand?

The Rover inlet manifold is a 180 degree dual plane low rise design, where each SU carburettor feeds two cyclinders on the adjacent bank and two on the opposite bank. Their combined flow rate meets the requirements of the 4.6 in standard form, which is what mine is, save for the custom ground high torque camshaft.

Modifications to the carburettors include running increased float levels, a change in butterflies and substantially richer needles which were then custom polished to ensure that the air/fuel ratio across the rev range when under load delivered maximum power and torque at all points. This was all done on a rolling road. I provided a new Lucas distributor too, which was regraphed to meet the requirements of advance rate and maximum of the 4.6.

On the dyno, the 4.6 delivered 60% more power to the rear wheels compared to my 3.5. I was expecting fuel economy to suffer compared to the 3.5, but I was to be very pleasantly surprised.
My 4.6 delivers on average 34% better fuel economy. Country running sees a worst of 25mpg and a best so far of 29mpg. Both were run off at 60 to 70mph average.

With the 3.5, I always had to use lots of choke when first started, and it would often have to remain out for quite some miles, else the engine would cough and splutter. No such problem with the 4.6. I only use the choke to start the engine when cold. Once started, the choke is pushed nearly home, and within 5 to 10 seconds at most is closed completely. I can then drive without any issues at all. The 4.6 and the way it has been set up have totally transformed my Rover making it an infinitely better car.

Does your 4.0 litre Rover still run the standard differential?

Ron.



How many extra ponies do you have under the bonnet?? what was it like to fit in the engine bay and what other mods are on it??
Its nice to see win win stories

Graeme

Hello Graeme,

Rather than answering here within Richard's post, I'll write a reply to you over in the "Welcome" section, within my post titled...Hello from Sydney, Australia.

Ron.
 
Not finished yet but I have resited the regulator and it now feeds the carb from the back.

Header tank on and full - not quite in service but will be soon.

Huge hose removed. Pipework now runs into an old 2200TC steel pipe (suitable modifed), down the back of the engine and into the heater using the proper P6 heater hose.

New polished stainless striker plate, and quite a few stainless nuts and bolts replacing the old rusty ones.

Bit of satin black paint here and there and the jobs a good un as they say round ere. It will certainly do until I get the motor out and sort the engine bay properly, hopefully next winter.
 

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.... and you've removed the tatty insulation too !

Looks great, much improved.

Back when I was at college, I vaguely knew the Beardmore lads, (morris minor modders), went round to see a car they were working on and the engine bay was almost totally devoid of cables / hoses etc, just the engine sat in the middle with smooth flat sides...

38%20engine%20bay.jpg
 
It would be interesting to see if they could achieve anything with an XJS V12 HE engine bay.
Now this is what i call a challenge!
 
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