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It is with regret that I am selling a important factory registered Nada. KXC 391H was sold directly to BP as a fuel development car for 4 star, yet to be rolled out across the country. At the same time it helped develop the MGB V8 on fueling as there was a direct collaboration between the two...

Hi everyone Some of you may know that I have a Nada collection. I have decided to sell certain cars all of which are original, some needing more work than others. These are rust free cars having been imported by myself except for one XC car that never made it to the states and is well known...

Providing your meter is working and set correctly you should see somewhere between 500-1500 ohms, it doesn't matter if the pick up is in line of the toothed reluctor, that only matters if your using a scope to look for waveform.

I would check your air gap in the distributor making sure there is no excessive play in the shaft thus creating gap issues. Then cap condition inc carbon brush, making sure it is present and sticking out far enough. Then I would disconnect the two wire plug from the distributor and do a ohms...

Great effort Andries

Tell me about it...

Hello everyone, Just to let you know of my listing of a ex dealer NOS radiator for the above. Ends tonight for anyone who's interested. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/251794454140? ... 1555.l2649 Thanks

123 distributor, no moving parts other than the shaft and eternally tuneable through a laptop. Expensive but a brilliant bit of kit.

If my memory serves me right you will not get the pump to work giving a direct 12v and earth. The other wires are to do with steering angle or possibly torque sensing and a exciter wire via the alternator. Is it a TRW pump?

Why not try Evans waterless coolant. We use it on racing D types and practically everything else and other companies I know use it religiously on their rally prepared classics. I am using it myself and believe me your V8 or otherwise will thank you for it. No pressure, no corrosion, no heat...

It's not suitable for carbs, pressures are too high. If you were to use a fuel pressure regulator then filter king would be your best bet if your happy to retro fit into your fuel system. It will regulate your fuel pressure right down to factory spec

A lot more restoration companies are starting to look towards soda blasting. There are more and more cases popping up where cars having been dipped are starting to show signs of dipping acids appearing through paint years after.

Try the same nav in a different car first. Eg. I run 3 cars aside from my P6's.. 05 Toyota amazon, 09 Cls 63 and a 04 Slk 55. A varied mix I think you would agree. Two different navs used, Garmin and TomTom all read higher than each one of the cars. Old bill traffic have navs that are highly...

Just follow a friend who has a newer car and compare the readings by phone, hands free of course

Don't trust you nav for a accurate speed because it is NOT accurate. they are usually out by 3-5 mph

Hate to blow my own trumpet but my mother is a Hawthorne, a very close relative. I will show her this when I see her again. Many thanks!

Fitting a fuel pump so far forward, behind the headlamp bowls especially on the N/S, so close to the coil ?? I'd advise no one to do that. There is a very good reason why manufacturers place their pumps and pipes in strategic areas on the cars taking accident damage into consideration. Remote...

Just for reference, cam lobes cause the tappets to rotate as they have a slight leading edge angle to create the desired spin thus even wear characteristic's

Nine times out of ten a symptom like that is the pressure relief valve sticking creating the excess pressure

A nice little touch is to fit said Facet (Bendix) pump to the rear like Air-con cars and retain the mechanical pump but remove the guts of the pump and lever arm so that the body then acts as a accumulator, the added bonus being you can keep the factory pipework to and from what was the pump.

A nice little touch is to fit said Facet (Bendix) pump to the rear like Air-con cars and retain the mechanical pump but remove the guts of the pump and lever arm so that the body then acts as a accumulator, the added bonus being you can keep the factory pipework to and from what was the pump.

To move the car by cranking by hand if the engine or something else is in a failed position. Like I said a guess

At a guess I would say it was for cranking the engine over with the box in gear, plugs out.

Hi, Just to confirm, that is not a Carb but a single point injection throttle body, the injector being the cylindrical black unit facing down the venturi. Simply look for a SPI throttle body

From memory there were two ways to read date codes, I cannot be sure but from around 2000 the codes went over to a DOT number system and prior to that the were letter coded to indicate age. If in doubt don't. As for the rims, well I would have the tyres mounted unless there is significant...