1967 2000TC - HOT

testrider

testrider

Active Member
This is my latest acquisition, a '67 2000TC. I've been thinking about buying a classic to use as a daily driver for a while and I spotted this on eBay, placed my bid, won and went to collect it.

Here it is back at home.

DSCN7567.jpg


The drive back from the vendors house in Surrey was fairly painless apart from a pretty big vibration at A road speed and a bit of slop on the accelerator linkage making pulling away a bit tricky. It was a cold day and I was pleased to find out that the heater works well as does the wiper delay :) On the road the handling was nice and balanced and the engine seemed quite perky.

The first job when I got back, even though it was getting dark, was to pull all the mats and underlay out of the boot as it was full of water. I've since found a couple of holes that need grommets and the fuel filler tube gaitor has perished.

During the week I've had the wheels balanced to try to cure the vibrations and 3 out of the 5 wheels are now OK with one buckled and the other with a bulge on the tyre, so that's currently the spare. I've had a quick run up the Loop Road and it seems to have cured it.

With the wheels off I had a look around underneath.

DSCN7562.jpg


DSCN7561.jpg


DSCN7559.jpg


DSCN7563.jpg


So far so good.

There are a couple of small holes at the end of the sills on each side just in front of the rear wheels which I'll repair over winter and then re-underseal the whole floorpan.

I've never bought a car unseen before and to be honest I probably wouldn't have bought it if I'd gone to view it first (I'm quite picky and terrible at making decisions), but there's a solid car underneath the shabby paint and it will just take me a little longer to get it up to scratch for me to use.
 
Hi Paul,

Looking good...and with the undoubted plus of that registration number... 8)

...and now you've got EMF sorted, you need another project! :wink:

Looking forward to seeing this thread develop!

Cheers,
 
Thanks guys. Half of it (wings, bonnet and roof) should polish up well, I've done a bit in between showers this afternoon, but the paint on the bootlid and decker panel is knackered and the doors have good paint over rusty door skins.

EMF isn't quite finished yet but the few bits I want to do can wait a while and I'll ship it off to the mother-in-laws to keep it out of the way for winter :shock:
 
She looks lovely!

I remember my suspension looking like that. A weekend with a wire brush and a tin of hammerite really soothes the soul!

How are the back brakes..... dare I ask?

Michael
 
It's just amazing that a properly engineered, pioneering 1960s sports saloon in usable presentable, condition is STILL available for that kind of money!

I've said it elsewhere, but I really do believe the P6 (and especially the 2000) is the classic car bargain of the century. In every respect you are buying a Jaguar standard of motoring, refinement, luxury and style (albeit less traditional style), plus all of the pioneering stuff that really did move the luxury saloon market on a pace. And yet we are still all made up when a P6 sells for in excess of £7k. Triumph 2.5PIs are twice P6 prices (and they're really not all that good either...), so are Citroen DS's. And if we were talking about an econo model 240 Mark 2 Jag in this condition, you wouldn't have got change from 3 grand!
How is it that only we know how good these cars are?!
 
I've got that car's left handed twin brother in the U.S. Keep the pics coming , please, if you can, as you move along as they will provide inspiration and motivation. That was a great deal you got for yourself
 
Looks good Paul,

What is the mileage? What's the condition of the engine? I expect you'll have the HD8 carbies on that one - watch out for the diaphragms in those.

.... and being a 4 pot, when you drain the oil, whip off the sump and give the mains/big-ends a quick check for condition and size of the bearings.

looking forward to some more pics :)

Bri.
 
She looks a good one Paul.

Most of that surface rust will brush off, front splash panels look solid enough, back end of sills look like being the only trouble spots.

Well done on what looks like a great bargain. Time will tell I guess.

Dave
 
redrover said:
It's just amazing that a properly engineered, pioneering 1960s sports saloon in usable presentable, condition is STILL available for that kind of money!

I've said it elsewhere, but I really do believe the P6 (and especially the 2000) is the classic car bargain of the century. In every respect you are buying a Jaguar standard of motoring, refinement, luxury and style (albeit less traditional style), plus all of the pioneering stuff that really did move the luxury saloon market on a pace. And yet we are still all made up when a P6 sells for in excess of £7k. Triumph 2.5PIs are twice P6 prices (and they're really not all that good either...), so are Citroen DS's. And if we were talking about an econo model 240 Mark 2 Jag in this condition, you wouldn't have got change from 3 grand!
How is it that only we know how good these cars are?!
Click to expand...

You are absolutely right, I don't know why the P6 is so under appreciated...

Had a trip of about 1.5 hours today with a girl who's in my year at university. She has no experience with old cars whatsoever, but she was rather impressed by the looks, the style and the comfort of my P6... :)
 
Brian-Northampton said:
Looks good Paul,

What is the mileage? What's the condition of the engine? I expect you'll have the HD8 carbies on that one - watch out for the diaphragms in those.

.... and being a 4 pot, when you drain the oil, whip off the sump and give the mains/big-ends a quick check for condition and size of the bearings.

looking forward to some more pics :)

Bri.
Click to expand...

Big HD8's yes.

Diaphragms? What do they do Bri?

The car's done just over 100,000 miles so it's ready for a good clean out and a tune up.
 
Hi Paul,

TBH I've no idea of their true function but the diaphragm is part of the jet assembly and needs to be flexible and not torn/ripped/split. Here's a snippet of info that I've got:

"A flexible diaphragm (fixed to the base of the jet assembly) is clamped between the float chamber extension and the underside of the jet housing, and divides the housing cavity into two chabers. The upper chamber contains the jet actuating (lowering) mechanism and the lower chamber is linked to the float chamber via a drilling in the extension, and is therefore flooded with fuel. The fuel flows up through the hollow jet to the orifice at the top."
Sso any splits in the diaphragm will allow the fuel through into the upper chamber and stop it running correctly.

Have you got the 2000 Workshop manual? I'm sure it's covered there.

Still waiting for some nice 4 pot engine pics :)

Bri.
 
Thanks for the explanation Bri. I do have a '67 workshop manual so I've been playing again this afternoon. I thought I'd check the valve timing as others on the forum had mentioned it being variable.

DSCN7570.jpg


I reckon that seems OK (apart from the filthy oil).

Might have a go at carb tuning tomorrow and probably check the valve clearances as I forgot to do it today whilst the cover was off.

I'll also give it a good wash and try to take some decent photos too.
 
Cam timing looks spot on! No chance that's the natural state of 100k engine, so if a previous owner has maintained that level of attention, chances are other things will be good too.

Expect the exhaust valve clearances to be a bit on the tight side if the head is in original condition. And while you're in there, do what you can with an old turkey baster to empty the 4 'reservoirs' around the cams, and then fill them back up with fresh oil. In my experience, they dont drain/replenish very well on their own, so best to do it manually. As long as you're careful, the cover gasket can be reused.

Before you give the carbs a fiddle, make sure your ign timing is far enough advanced to compensate for modern fuel in the high compression head. I find 13 BTDC performs reasonably well with regular unleaded, about 10 BTDC with super, nut every engine will be slightly different.

Enjoy it. The TC is such a hoot when you push it!

Michael
 
The owner I knew would have done the tappets at very least, if not had the head off. He was keen on flushing out and replacing side plates too. Would have been a few years back now but not many miles ago I'll bet :wink:
 
redrover said:
Cam timing looks spot on! No chance that's the natural state of 100k engine, so if a previous owner has maintained that level of attention, chances are other things will be good too.

Expect the exhaust valve clearances to be a bit on the tight side if the head is in original condition. And while you're in there, do what you can with an old turkey baster to empty the 4 'reservoirs' around the cams, and then fill them back up with fresh oil. In my experience, they dont drain/replenish very well on their own, so best to do it manually. As long as you're careful, the cover gasket can be reused.

Before you give the carbs a fiddle, make sure your ign timing is far enough advanced to compensate for modern fuel in the high compression head. I find 13 BTDC performs reasonably well with regular unleaded, about 10 BTDC with super, nut every engine will be slightly different.

Enjoy it. The TC is such a hoot when you push it!

Michael
Click to expand...

I don't think the timing is as retarded as that, but I can only make out the TDC marking on the flywheel. Are there degree markings on the crankshaft pulley too?

GrimV8 said:
The owner I knew would have done the tappets at very least, if not had the head off. He was keen on flushing out and replacing side plates too. Would have been a few years back now but not many miles ago I'll bet :wink:
Click to expand...

I've got his maintenance record I think - from about '96 to '05 - and it's quite comprehensive at nearly two sides of lined A4 paper. There are a few before and after photos too showing it with blue door and wings.

I checked the valve clearances over the weekend and I think they're a bit tight:-

4 ex = 13thou
4 in = 9
3 ex = 11
3 in = 9
2 ex = 6
2 in = 9
1 ex = 11
1 in = 8

Could no.2 exhaust be the cause of the popping at idle given that it should be closer to 15thou?

So, they need adjusting, but should I just do the clearances or would you recommend 'head off and regrind the valves?

I had to do a bit of impromptue car shuffling yesterday as the (relatively) good weather meant that I could collect EMF back from Annables, where it was have a little paint niggle sorted, and I had nowhere to put it. So HOT has now gone to off my parent's a bit earlier than planned and I can get started on getting it ship shape.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top