1967 2000TC - HOT

There's probably about an inch and a half gap between the back of the cylinder head and the heater box. I don't think it wil be anymore difficult to remove than a V8 one.
 
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I have also retrofitted a wiper delay like this with a similar bracket on the arm that is connected to the motor, and find it really useful. For the switch i have used a series 2 item, but fitted with the correct series 1 knob.
The hot/cold flap in the air filter case came also with the series 2 cars.
The coil position is correct for the year. Later series 1 cars (after 1968?) had it next to the servo. They also had the later side to side flow radiator, the later windscreen washer motor and the closed circuit engine breather system, along with the domed black flame trap / filter on the top of the cam cover. About then also came the plasticised (or something like this anyway) oil filler cap in the cam cover.
What makes me feel uncomfortable though is the naked negative terminal post on the battery. It is way too close to the servo, and i have been told that it was very common for early 2000s to catch fire after a light crash on the front right, for obvious reasons.
Finally, in order to remove the heater box, you have to remove the cam cover and the rear stud. Other than that, it should be no different from the V8 models.
 
Demetris said:
The coil position is correct for the year.

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Demetris said:
What makes me feel uncomfortable though is the naked negative terminal post on the battery. It is way too close to the servo,

Negative earth car Demetris so that'll be the +ve terminal. You can probably make out from my photo above that my battery has it's posts on the other edge so a bit further away from the servo.

Dave
 
Dave3066 said:
Negative earth car Demetris so that'll be the +ve terminal. You can probably make out from my photo above that my battery has it's posts on the other edge so a bit further away from the servo. Dave

Thanks Dave, i really meant to say positive! The battery in your Lady C is just like my TC, the posts are near the inner wing. I guess Paul's car has the wrong type of battery fitted!
 
I didn't know that you could get batteries with terminals in different places. I'd spotted that the +ve terminal is unprotected so I'll get a plastic cover to put over it until I need a new battery.
 
testrider said:
I didn't know that you could get batteries with terminals in different places.

It's one of those things that you only ever fail to notice once :wink:

Dave
 
I spent an hour or so in the garage with HOT yesterday. I wanted to give the floorpan ans sills a good check over as water has been leaking into the car through the door seals. Currently I can only get to the passenger side so I'll do that first and then spin the car round to do the other side later.

Here's the passenger footwell.

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I reckon that's factory steel and I can't see any sections let in on the inner sill. There's just a small circular patch (about 40mm across) on the floor half way along the sill. The red oxide primer is flaking though so that will have to come off and be repainted.

Here's the sill under the rear seat on the passenger side. The door apperture is at the top of the photo.

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Again looks pretty solid and factory to me. There's a bit of flaking and small holes on the outside under each of the box sections though.

I took the N/S sill cover off - the screws came out easily - and I was pleasantly surprised.

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A neat repair, with drain holes and wax injection points which just needs repainting and undersealing.

Moving to the rear.

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Oh dear I thought as the rear jacking point fell on the floor! It seems odd that the sill's been repaired nicely, but the jacking point was left as is. The sill is sound in between so I've just got to box it in again.

Overall, quite pleased with the condition of the base unit and I should be able to get cracking with it over the holidays.
 
This is where I point out that I only ever did some paint (the good bits) and not the welding on this car :mrgreen:

I usually sort the jacking points out too :LOL: I know who was used to do it and is work is ok as a rule :)
 
So following on from my last post where I'd just started investigating the sills I removed the rear wing and stripped off the underseal in the wheelarch which left me with this.

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Which soon became this.

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I decided to rebuild the flanged centre section first so that I could weld the wheelarch repair sections to it either side.

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With that in place I bridged across from the D post

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Then the tricky bit - to try and make the curves to join the sill/jacking point to the inner wheelarch.

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I looked at this for a long time to get my head around what shape I needed to make as the original bit was long since turned to dust and I couldn't find a decent picture of that area on the forum either.

Anyway I made this bit for starters and then refitted the sill cover to asses the next bit to make.

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Simple as it looks it took about an hour and a half to make that as it curves in two planes and has a 90º flange too. I need to trim a little of the end and reshape the curve but it looks about right. The next step will be to get the outer jacking point roughly right then I can see how to join the two bits together and carry the wheel arch round to the sill.

In between doing those bits I had a dig around in the floor

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That big patch was over the top of the original floor and has left quite a mess.

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I just need to work out how much more to cut away.
 
Good to see progress Paul

I had almost exactly the same job to do on Verity's rear jacking point and wheel arch this time last year and that last little triangular bit that has an 'S' profile was a real pain to figure out. The pics are in this thread if you need any pointers.

Dave
 
Nice work... I had the same thing both sides on PAE... It's a difficult area to see what you're doing but i think that's better than i managed to pull off in terms of quality!
 
rockdemon said:
Nice work... I had the same thing both sides on PAE... It's a difficult area to see what you're doing but i think that's better than i managed to pull off in terms of quality!

Glad you think it's up to scratch Rich.

Dave3066 said:
Good to see progress Paul

I had almost exactly the same job to do on Verity's rear jacking point and wheel arch this time last year and that last little triangular bit that has an 'S' profile was a real pain to figure out. The pics are in this thread if you need any pointers.

Dave

Thanks for the link Dave, it's a tricky bit alright - mainly because no one takes the photo at a good angle to see the shape form the inside and there are hardly any cars with the exact factory shape left in tact.

Anyway in a classic piece of avoiding the problem I decided to work on another bit instead! Over the last few lunchtimes I've managed to get a patch made and welded in to the right of the flange seen here.

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I also bought some etch primer and sprayed into the cavity behind it afterwards through the seat belt mounting hole and up through the missing jacking point - see there was method in my madness!
 
GrimV8 said:
Coming on well :D

But not as quickly as I'd like! I've had to have a couple of weekends off the repairs whilst I changed the clutch on Jane's MX5 - almost every bolt was seized and it required partial disassembly of about half the car to get the gearbox out.

Anyway, that's sorted out now and it's much nicer to drive with the bite point nice and low, so I was able to get a bit more of the dissection of HOT's previous repairs done.

This is the area under the back seat and there was a large U shaped patch welded in the inside to repair a small hole in the floor which has now gone. It was tricky to get this out so I've had to leave some of it in place which I'll reattach to the new floor section.

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On the outside I've cut away about as much as I need to here.

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So it's finally in with some fresh steel.

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First on the side of the box section and then I made a nice flanged patch to close in the underneath.

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But, I ran out of gas before I could join the stitches together and it was ten to five on a Saturday so there was no chance of getting any more that day!

I hope to get this bit and a floor section finished off this week.
 
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