codekiddie
Active Member
My carbs rebuild ended up with the new floats being removed, and the old ones refitted again :?
Getting back on the road
- Thread starter sdibbers
- Start date
codekiddie
Active Member
Same (B)loomin' company as well, so maybe they had a bad batch. I have used them before for our other classic car requirements with no issues, so I would like to think this was the case.
Sadly, as with other products in life, 'They don't make 'em like they used to' seems to hold some truth. I have an Atari games console from 1981 that will still happily let me play 'Space Invaders' and Pacman etc..., but I have made a fair bit of money in the past repairing faulty Playstation 2's and selling them on, that were only a couple of years old :shock: :shock: :shock:
Sadly, as with other products in life, 'They don't make 'em like they used to' seems to hold some truth. I have an Atari games console from 1981 that will still happily let me play 'Space Invaders' and Pacman etc..., but I have made a fair bit of money in the past repairing faulty Playstation 2's and selling them on, that were only a couple of years old :shock: :shock: :shock:
sdibbers
Well-Known Member
Too right. It's interesting how they've redesigned the floats with stronger arms compared to the early ones, but with failure on the joint in the float.
On the old ones I think they used the hotplate method for joining the two halves of the float together. That's why they have such a big seam on them. The idea is you put both halves face down on a hotplate to melt the edge of the moulding, then squeeze them together to form a air tight joint. It has some constraints from the design point of view, the split line needs to be planer and you need careful fixturing to ensure a repeatable tolerance on parts.
The later ones I think are ultrasonically welded. With that method you use ultra sound projected through the part to make it vibrate against the other half. The vibration creates friction, which in turn creates heat that welds the two halves together. I've used this method in my professional life as a product engineer quite a bit. I'm always wary of using it for sealing though as the failure rate can be pretty high. In the past I've even designed a rubber gasket to be trapped between the two halves and I'll use the weld to just hold things together for that reason. Unfortunately I don't think that's possible with a HIF float as space and weight is tight in that application.
More info than anybody needs or possibly wants, I'll shut up now.
On the old ones I think they used the hotplate method for joining the two halves of the float together. That's why they have such a big seam on them. The idea is you put both halves face down on a hotplate to melt the edge of the moulding, then squeeze them together to form a air tight joint. It has some constraints from the design point of view, the split line needs to be planer and you need careful fixturing to ensure a repeatable tolerance on parts.
The later ones I think are ultrasonically welded. With that method you use ultra sound projected through the part to make it vibrate against the other half. The vibration creates friction, which in turn creates heat that welds the two halves together. I've used this method in my professional life as a product engineer quite a bit. I'm always wary of using it for sealing though as the failure rate can be pretty high. In the past I've even designed a rubber gasket to be trapped between the two halves and I'll use the weld to just hold things together for that reason. Unfortunately I don't think that's possible with a HIF float as space and weight is tight in that application.
More info than anybody needs or possibly wants, I'll shut up now.
sdibbers
Well-Known Member
Well, I've added extra insulation to the heat shield under the carbs, replaced a new float that filled with fuel and re-set the float heights on both carbs. She's been running fine for a couple weeks now. On Monday my friend Alec and myself drove to the classic race weekend at Lime Rock Connecticut. We drove up in the morning, had a great day then drove back in the late afternoon in 91°f temperatures. Even at high speeds with those temps and traffic approaching the Tappen Zee bridge she didn't miss a beat! I am now cautiously calling her fixed! We managed 250 miles in one day with her.
Today I swapped out the old evaporator and AC unit in the cabin for an original center console stack. I've been wanting to do this for a good while as the AC compressor and condenser have gone bye byes over the years before I got the car. The Delenaire AC unit is also pretty ugly in my book. I pulled the old one, while I was at it I adjusted the reverse light switch. Put in the new (old) standard center stack and removed the padding the carpet had next to the transmission tunnel. The carpet now follows the tunnel and both Kim and I have an extra two inches of foot room. I found a number of missing grommets while having things out. Including the big one around the speedo cable. I've replaced them as best I can and used some gorilla tape where I could find a replacement. Not factory, but better than nothing.
So, I started the car, and decide to take her around the block to test things out. That's when I notice that the tachometer, final and temp gauge are out. Bugger! I drive back, check the fuses and number 2 is blown. I check the wiring diagram and see all the circuits share that fuse. I really don't want to pull the center stack again, so I think I'll check the reverse switch. Bizarrely the wire had come off the terminal and managed to touch the tab out the back of the switch causing a short! I replace the wire and the fuse and start her up, all is good.
The new console looks great, the cabin feels much better. Also with the holes sealed up she's quieter and much cooler with no heat making its way from the down pipe into the cabin with the speedo grommet fixed.
Today I swapped out the old evaporator and AC unit in the cabin for an original center console stack. I've been wanting to do this for a good while as the AC compressor and condenser have gone bye byes over the years before I got the car. The Delenaire AC unit is also pretty ugly in my book. I pulled the old one, while I was at it I adjusted the reverse light switch. Put in the new (old) standard center stack and removed the padding the carpet had next to the transmission tunnel. The carpet now follows the tunnel and both Kim and I have an extra two inches of foot room. I found a number of missing grommets while having things out. Including the big one around the speedo cable. I've replaced them as best I can and used some gorilla tape where I could find a replacement. Not factory, but better than nothing.
So, I started the car, and decide to take her around the block to test things out. That's when I notice that the tachometer, final and temp gauge are out. Bugger! I drive back, check the fuses and number 2 is blown. I check the wiring diagram and see all the circuits share that fuse. I really don't want to pull the center stack again, so I think I'll check the reverse switch. Bizarrely the wire had come off the terminal and managed to touch the tab out the back of the switch causing a short! I replace the wire and the fuse and start her up, all is good.
The new console looks great, the cabin feels much better. Also with the holes sealed up she's quieter and much cooler with no heat making its way from the down pipe into the cabin with the speedo grommet fixed.
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Demetris
Well-Known Member
Yes indeed the Delanair unit is not a pleasant sight, i dare say it rather destroys the original concept of the interior. More so if it isn't functional at all.
The internal unit of my alpinair unit is not so bad, but i would also prefer the standard console. I am thinking of modifying a standard heater box to take the evaporator because i want to keep the A/C in my Rover, even if now i don't rely on it as everyday transport.
The internal unit of my alpinair unit is not so bad, but i would also prefer the standard console. I am thinking of modifying a standard heater box to take the evaporator because i want to keep the A/C in my Rover, even if now i don't rely on it as everyday transport.
sdibbers
Well-Known Member
You're too right Demtrius! The Delenaire is pretty ugly, on top of that it has a very home made feel. Most of the housings are made from thin walked vacuum formings. You can plainly see the squirrel cage fan through the vents. There's exposed screws holding the choke and pet reserve cables in place. So glad to be spared the sight of it when I drive the car.
The blanking the holes I found in the transmission tunnel and bulkhead has helped with noise and heat ingress into the cabin too. I just need to find a nice way to get the choke cable sorted for the HIF's. I'd like to keep the hook style cable in the cabin. I think I could design a revised coupling for the cable under the bonnet.
The blanking the holes I found in the transmission tunnel and bulkhead has helped with noise and heat ingress into the cabin too. I just need to find a nice way to get the choke cable sorted for the HIF's. I'd like to keep the hook style cable in the cabin. I think I could design a revised coupling for the cable under the bonnet.
sdibbers
Well-Known Member
Well, I took to work again today. She's generally running a lot better. Power is back, fuel consumption is US 20mpg (about 24mpg in LSD). Still a little rough at idle, I'm sure I can get her better. I will keep an eye open for a 2200tc air box as I think the filters I have on are letting in too much hot air from below the carbs and not from the front of the engine bay as an original box would do.
I've picked up a chock cable to fit at long last. If I get time this weekend I'll fit it. Cold starts without having to sit on the drive would be a nice thing.
I've picked up a chock cable to fit at long last. If I get time this weekend I'll fit it. Cold starts without having to sit on the drive would be a nice thing.
sdibbers
Well-Known Member
I ended up fitting a universal chock cable for the HIF's. It's sliver and I've fitted on the switch panel by the steering column adjustment knob so it's fairly invisible. Has the added advantage of keeping the original hook style cable on the center console, which I like. Works a charm and she's much more pleasant to drive from cold now.
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sdibbers
Well-Known Member
So, managed to find a 2200TC air box from Mark Grey. I got it this week and managed to find time to strip off the old paint, prime and top coat in semi gloss black. Fitted it today after removing the pancake filters I had on there. I was expecting things to be quieter, but what a great improvement! Idle is smoother, power is way up, especially at lower revs, much much quieter at highway speeds too. So, if anybody else decides to go down the HIF6 route I can heartily recommend finding an old 2200TC air box assembly.
My wife commented after seeing it that it wasn't sexy like the pancakes, she liked it to a middle aged librarian. I think librarians may be the new sexy for me.
Here's a pic of old vs new.
My wife commented after seeing it that it wasn't sexy like the pancakes, she liked it to a middle aged librarian. I think librarians may be the new sexy for me.
Here's a pic of old vs new.
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Demetris
Well-Known Member
Ermm, Steve, you started it!
Anyway, do you still have the original AC airbox, the one with the different snorkel that misses the AC compressor? If yes, we can arrange something.
After the swap to the HIF6s i also fitted a standard 2200 TC air box, and after some time i complemented it with new K&N freeflow element. However, the 2200 TC airbox wasn't really compatible with the AC compressor, so i made a couple of adapters for the HIF6s, and fitted the 2000 TC air box but with the snorkel cut of. I kept telling myself that i will make a replica of the airbox of the AC cars, but never really started on this.
Anyway, do you still have the original AC airbox, the one with the different snorkel that misses the AC compressor? If yes, we can arrange something.
After the swap to the HIF6s i also fitted a standard 2200 TC air box, and after some time i complemented it with new K&N freeflow element. However, the 2200 TC airbox wasn't really compatible with the AC compressor, so i made a couple of adapters for the HIF6s, and fitted the 2000 TC air box but with the snorkel cut of. I kept telling myself that i will make a replica of the airbox of the AC cars, but never really started on this.
sdibbers
Well-Known Member
Hey Demetris,
Yep, I only have myself to blame
. I do have an AC box for HS8s 2000TC. It was painted zircon blue by the previous owner, just to warn you. I'll try and dig it out and photograph it for you. However we're going to be away from the middle of this week so it might have to wait.
Other thought is that the snorkels are set up for the offset of the bigger carbs. You might need to make spacers between the carbs and it.
Yep, I only have myself to blame
. I do have an AC box for HS8s 2000TC. It was painted zircon blue by the previous owner, just to warn you. I'll try and dig it out and photograph it for you. However we're going to be away from the middle of this week so it might have to wait. Other thought is that the snorkels are set up for the offset of the bigger carbs. You might need to make spacers between the carbs and it.
sdibbers
Well-Known Member
Interesting what you find when working on different years of the same model car. When I stripped my old car (a '68 TC) down I kept the horse hair sound proofing felt under the carpet. Beryl is a '69 TC and I noticed that she always felt a little louder. I pulled the carpet up yesterday to remove old stereo wiring (a real hack job by a car stereo shop for the previous owner) I noticed that the sound proofing was about 1/8" thick. The 68 sound proofing is 1" thick! Fitted that today and what difference to how she feels at motorway speeds!