Project AR J
- Thread starter arthuy
- Start date
arthuy
Well-Known Member
Steve I was out and about today, down to Irvine via kilwinning then Braehead for some shopping and home via Canal street.
If you are having p6 withdrawl you are welcome to take AR J for a spin. I think it would be good to get a second opinion on some of the creaks and groans.
I really need a left hand mirror, i suppose when it is daylight and the windows arent steamed up you are ok but not much fun if it is.
Managed to sort out the wiper delay, ended up swapping it out, the electrical contacts werent playing ball. I was glad I did as it was raining pretty much all of the 70 miles i did today.
Bit annoyed because one of the front exhaust pipes has began to blown. I will try and mig weld it insitu save breaking studs, mean time there is a gun gum bandage waiting to go on.
If you are having p6 withdrawl you are welcome to take AR J for a spin. I think it would be good to get a second opinion on some of the creaks and groans.
I really need a left hand mirror, i suppose when it is daylight and the windows arent steamed up you are ok but not much fun if it is.
Managed to sort out the wiper delay, ended up swapping it out, the electrical contacts werent playing ball. I was glad I did as it was raining pretty much all of the 70 miles i did today.
Bit annoyed because one of the front exhaust pipes has began to blown. I will try and mig weld it insitu save breaking studs, mean time there is a gun gum bandage waiting to go on.
Rudiger Wicke
Member
Just checked my database - ARJ 163L was up for sale in P6 News June 2004 / £1200
Rudiger
Rudiger
Rudiger Wicke
Member
My remark says "ad incl. photo"
Have all details, thanks
Rudiger
Have all details, thanks
Rudiger
arthuy
Well-Known Member
I have checked my old copy of P6 News and found an AD for an 3500s in Stockport. It is hard to tell from the photo as it shows refelctive raised digit number plates and is described as having new sills and been garaged. AR J had been heavily welded with a ton of underseal and an DIY inner sill. Now has pressed black aluminium plates. The tow bar is quite distinctive so probably is the same car. AR J was bought in late April 2004 from Stockport and the owner was a lady. Not sure about the engine being rebuilt as it is manky and I would say more than 7 years of filth.
Couple of pictures.
This is a genunine jaguar XJ40 earth strap £5 delivered much bigger than the ones from Halfords.
An out and about shot, always amazing how small the P6 is when parked next to moderns.
Exhaust leak, tried to weld this up today insitu not easy but I got a little plate on which will keep it together and smoothered it with some exhaust paste so it will get me by for now. The manifold studs do look thin, better order up some stainless steel bar and make some up incase.
Old and new slave cylinder. I spotted this was pretty grotty and felt weak. I ordered one up which was only about £12 inc postage from a Land Rover supplier as it fits the series 2a Land Rover, I love cross refering part numbers
When I took the old one off it didn't even have a rubber boot on the end. All bled and feels better.
Fraser, glad you enjoy the thread. I like to do this sort of thing. I have learnt just about everything I know about cars from getting stuck into fixing P6's. When I first got into them I found there was alot of snobery and people were not always as helpful, these people are still out there but this forum seems to have the right sort of people, always good if you can provide some inspiration to others. This project has been pretty fast compared to others my 2200tc is languishing out the back. I bought it as a non running project 31st August 2001. not so great.
It does look too bad either. I took these today for a guy who was interested in buying, turns out he is interested but hadn't got the ok from his wife.
Couple of pictures.
This is a genunine jaguar XJ40 earth strap £5 delivered much bigger than the ones from Halfords.
An out and about shot, always amazing how small the P6 is when parked next to moderns.
Exhaust leak, tried to weld this up today insitu not easy but I got a little plate on which will keep it together and smoothered it with some exhaust paste so it will get me by for now. The manifold studs do look thin, better order up some stainless steel bar and make some up incase.
Old and new slave cylinder. I spotted this was pretty grotty and felt weak. I ordered one up which was only about £12 inc postage from a Land Rover supplier as it fits the series 2a Land Rover, I love cross refering part numbers
When I took the old one off it didn't even have a rubber boot on the end. All bled and feels better.
Fraser, glad you enjoy the thread. I like to do this sort of thing. I have learnt just about everything I know about cars from getting stuck into fixing P6's. When I first got into them I found there was alot of snobery and people were not always as helpful, these people are still out there but this forum seems to have the right sort of people, always good if you can provide some inspiration to others. This project has been pretty fast compared to others my 2200tc is languishing out the back. I bought it as a non running project 31st August 2001.
not so great.It does look too bad either. I took these today for a guy who was interested in buying, turns out he is interested but hadn't got the ok from his wife.
Willy Eckerslyke
Well-Known Member
One of my jobs over the weekend was changing the clutch slave cylinder on my "shunter" Land Rover. I spent ages finding the best scrap one from my pile of Landy bits, but never thought to look in my P6 collection!
arthuy
Well-Known Member
Today was supposed to be a Munro bagging day but due to the amount of water we have had in the last week it was a non starter.
So this left me with a day to play. A few small issues I wanted to look at. The groan, window winder, poor starting/high idle, mirrors and tyres.
Started off with the starting and idling. Over the past week or so when the car was started from cold it was really rough and I had to leave it a few minutes before is was running properly. I thought it may have been air in the fuel line as it was a bIt like low fuel (wasnt low fuel btw). The confusing thing was it could misfire and you could smell there was unburnt fuel coming out the exhaust. I had wanted to give the car a good tune up as with the new points and vacuum unit AR J was needing it.
First I removed the spark plugs to check them and every one was sooty. One of the thoughts I had was a weeping inlet manifold gasket so sooty was good. I cleaned them but when I started the engine it was still not right. Armed with my colour tunes and carbalancer I quickly spotted that the carbs were out of sync and one carb was richer than the other :? It wasnt too hard to tweak them. I like using two colourtunes in No5 and no7 cylinders so you can seen them side by side. Once I had them sorted I did a test drive, I live on a steep hill so I went right to the top with no complaints.
I had always thought the car was rich, most of the p6 I have known always need a little choke to start even when they had only just cooled. AR J would normally start on the key and struggled a little from cold. Again a little adjustment at the linkages and we seem to be what I know as normal. I left the car to cool down and few times during the day and so far so good.
The rear driverside window winder wasnt working, I had a spare sitting in the garage so managed to get the door card off and changed it out. The winder seemed to work when I had gotten it off although it had twisted a touch. The reason for failure was the slider channel had some light corrosion and the winder was rusted in position. It did clean up with some wire wool and I packed the whole channel with grease so one more thing off the list.
The big thing I had been trying to work out was a creak/groan from the drive train when I was breaking or if the gear change was less than smooth causing the car to lurch, there was also a click but only when reversing. I checked all the UJ's before and couldn't find a problem, the prop was greased but still this noise. Thankfully in a way it got worse and was definatly a roatating noise, which tied into some scuff marks on the prop flange at the rear crossmember I was looking a rubber mount either missing or worn. There is a bush at the diff extension which appears to have disolved with oil and has allowed the propshaft flange to contact the crossmember under certain load or hard breaking. Really as a way of proving this and not a bodge I used the metal lid off of a tin and wedged it in so is pushing the bush up a touch. A short test drive and the noise is gone. Now all I need to do is figure out what the bush should be an where to get one.
Not bad for a days work. The handbrake has now adjusted up and no longer points at the roof and locks the back wheels so I am happy especially as the MOT is coming. The brake warning lamp is next on the list. It is on all the time. I tried disconnecting the fluid level sender so I guess it is either the handbrake switch, wiring or maybe something to do with the pad wear ?? I will dig out the wiring diagram unless someone has an idea.
The postman delivered a pair of mirrors and I fitted the passenger side one and it is ok, not as good as a wingard but will do. As this was different from the driverside mirror I took that one off to swap it for the new one but when I took it off it lifted some paint from underneath and the new mirror has a smaller foot print and I dont want to have a big bit of blue paint showing.
The delivery guy also dropped by yesterday with some new tyres. I had been searching ebay and managed to get a pair of New Hankook tyres for £55 inc delivery, they are not comercial tyres and were made in 2009 so good bargain I think. I do like to have matched tyres on a car but cant find a pair to match the rear.
So this left me with a day to play. A few small issues I wanted to look at. The groan, window winder, poor starting/high idle, mirrors and tyres.
Started off with the starting and idling. Over the past week or so when the car was started from cold it was really rough and I had to leave it a few minutes before is was running properly. I thought it may have been air in the fuel line as it was a bIt like low fuel (wasnt low fuel btw). The confusing thing was it could misfire and you could smell there was unburnt fuel coming out the exhaust. I had wanted to give the car a good tune up as with the new points and vacuum unit AR J was needing it.
First I removed the spark plugs to check them and every one was sooty. One of the thoughts I had was a weeping inlet manifold gasket so sooty was good. I cleaned them but when I started the engine it was still not right. Armed with my colour tunes and carbalancer I quickly spotted that the carbs were out of sync and one carb was richer than the other :? It wasnt too hard to tweak them. I like using two colourtunes in No5 and no7 cylinders so you can seen them side by side. Once I had them sorted I did a test drive, I live on a steep hill so I went right to the top with no complaints.
I had always thought the car was rich, most of the p6 I have known always need a little choke to start even when they had only just cooled. AR J would normally start on the key and struggled a little from cold. Again a little adjustment at the linkages and we seem to be what I know as normal. I left the car to cool down and few times during the day and so far so good.
The rear driverside window winder wasnt working, I had a spare sitting in the garage so managed to get the door card off and changed it out. The winder seemed to work when I had gotten it off although it had twisted a touch. The reason for failure was the slider channel had some light corrosion and the winder was rusted in position. It did clean up with some wire wool and I packed the whole channel with grease so one more thing off the list.
The big thing I had been trying to work out was a creak/groan from the drive train when I was breaking or if the gear change was less than smooth causing the car to lurch, there was also a click but only when reversing. I checked all the UJ's before and couldn't find a problem, the prop was greased but still this noise. Thankfully in a way it got worse and was definatly a roatating noise, which tied into some scuff marks on the prop flange at the rear crossmember I was looking a rubber mount either missing or worn. There is a bush at the diff extension which appears to have disolved with oil and has allowed the propshaft flange to contact the crossmember under certain load or hard breaking. Really as a way of proving this and not a bodge I used the metal lid off of a tin and wedged it in so is pushing the bush up a touch. A short test drive and the noise is gone. Now all I need to do is figure out what the bush should be an where to get one.
Not bad for a days work. The handbrake has now adjusted up and no longer points at the roof and locks the back wheels so I am happy especially as the MOT is coming. The brake warning lamp is next on the list. It is on all the time. I tried disconnecting the fluid level sender so I guess it is either the handbrake switch, wiring or maybe something to do with the pad wear ?? I will dig out the wiring diagram unless someone has an idea.
The postman delivered a pair of mirrors and I fitted the passenger side one and it is ok, not as good as a wingard but will do. As this was different from the driverside mirror I took that one off to swap it for the new one but when I took it off it lifted some paint from underneath and the new mirror has a smaller foot print and I dont want to have a big bit of blue paint showing.
The delivery guy also dropped by yesterday with some new tyres. I had been searching ebay and managed to get a pair of New Hankook tyres for £55 inc delivery, they are not comercial tyres and were made in 2009 so good bargain I think. I do like to have matched tyres on a car but cant find a pair to match the rear.
arthuy
Well-Known Member
It is the diff pinion bush, I read some old posts and may be a tigerseal fix.
It is a day off for me so I went down to get the tyres fitted. I was planning on keeping the Pirelli P6 tyre but the fitter noted that it was off shape. I think it was good 30years old and hadn't worn, in fact I only put it into service to replace the tyre that was lifting off the carcas.
Yesterday I fitted one of the Scotts old Auto Rubber boot mount badges. I have had it for a few years or would have got a new one from Ian Wilson.
I take a photo of all my classic on this bit of road, normally I drop in for coffee and watch the admirers out the window.
Think I picked up a scammer, I got a text about the for sale add so I replied it is and to call me as I was off, then I got a reply that they were in Eccudor and could give me a deposit....oh dear! I hope they don't try again, it is bad enough when they email.
It is a day off for me so I went down to get the tyres fitted. I was planning on keeping the Pirelli P6 tyre but the fitter noted that it was off shape. I think it was good 30years old and hadn't worn, in fact I only put it into service to replace the tyre that was lifting off the carcas.
Yesterday I fitted one of the Scotts old Auto Rubber boot mount badges. I have had it for a few years or would have got a new one from Ian Wilson.
I take a photo of all my classic on this bit of road, normally I drop in for coffee and watch the admirers out the window.
Think I picked up a scammer, I got a text about the for sale add so I replied it is and to call me as I was off, then I got a reply that they were in Eccudor and could give me a deposit....oh dear! I hope they don't try again, it is bad enough when they email.
arthuy
Well-Known Member
Deep Shame AR J had to rely on a break down man this afternoon. It was just a jump start so nothing major, ( the car has to go home on a lorry to be a breakdown )
The battery is on the small side but has been ok but obviously running lights, wipers, heater etc there is always going to be a strain. I tried to get a jump start but haven't had much luck with the modern plastic ones I bought a while back. A Heavy duty set are going on my list to Santa.
The car fired up after the guy put a battery pack on and I watched the ammeter all the way home. Even with everything off and giving the car a good rev the guage only just deflected past the "0".
I have a little LED Tester which I can put on the battery or as I do connect it to the cigar lighter socket. This confirmed was charging but not as much as 14.5v. I got the DVOM out and the best I could get out was 13.8v which dropped down to 12.8v when I put all the electrical bits on.Need to get a new battery I think.
On the plus the new front tyres have made a huge difference to the handling and the steering feels much lighter.
AR J had to rely on a break down man this afternoon. It was just a jump start so nothing major, ( the car has to go home on a lorry to be a breakdown )The battery is on the small side but has been ok but obviously running lights, wipers, heater etc there is always going to be a strain. I tried to get a jump start but haven't had much luck with the modern plastic ones I bought a while back. A Heavy duty set are going on my list to Santa.
The car fired up after the guy put a battery pack on and I watched the ammeter all the way home. Even with everything off and giving the car a good rev the guage only just deflected past the "0".
I have a little LED Tester which I can put on the battery or as I do connect it to the cigar lighter socket. This confirmed was charging but not as much as 14.5v. I got the DVOM out and the best I could get out was 13.8v which dropped down to 12.8v when I put all the electrical bits on.Need to get a new battery I think.
On the plus the new front tyres have made a huge difference to the handling and the steering feels much lighter.
arthuy
Well-Known Member
I have ordered up enought 35mm sq welding cable to make 2 sets of jump leads.
Problem I now have is what to do about the clamps. VWP have them http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-onlinestore/battconns/battconn.php#booster and they work out at about £25 for 4 300a clamps with the postage. Or I could buy a set of cheap £5 jump leads and reuse the clamps.
One of the lads I know has a nice set with brass welding clamps but I can't seem to find them.
Can anyone suggest a place to get a decent set of clamps or should I try te cheapo ones first?
Colin
Problem I now have is what to do about the clamps. VWP have them http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-onlinestore/battconns/battconn.php#booster and they work out at about £25 for 4 300a clamps with the postage. Or I could buy a set of cheap £5 jump leads and reuse the clamps.
One of the lads I know has a nice set with brass welding clamps but I can't seem to find them.
Can anyone suggest a place to get a decent set of clamps or should I try te cheapo ones first?
Colin
arthuy said:
Cheap leads will use cheap clamps. £25 for 4 clamps is nothing to make a good, proper, set of leads, I think I paid near that 30 years ago when I made mine up, and they're still going strong now. After all the use they've had it doesn't seem like a lot of money to me. In 30 years time you'll think the same...
Tor
Well-Known Member
Hi Colin,
Out of interest, are those tyres Hankook Optimo H415s by any chance..? I'm considering a set as I hear they're top value among non-premium tyres - and quiet. Would be interested to hear your opinion.
The diff extension bush I also replaced on mine but it being shot with oil I also needed a new oil seal for the diff extension.
Tor
Out of interest, are those tyres Hankook Optimo H415s by any chance..? I'm considering a set as I hear they're top value among non-premium tyres - and quiet. Would be interested to hear your opinion.
The diff extension bush I also replaced on mine but it being shot with oil I also needed a new oil seal for the diff extension.
Tor
unstable load
Well-Known Member
Get yourself to a place that does welding supplies and buy some heavy duty earth clamps.
That'll do you nicely!!
That'll do you nicely!!
arthuy
Well-Known Member
I have got a set coming but want to get the HD weldinclamps the cable came yesterday and it looks up to the job, I will do a photo to show the cross sections.
The Hankooks are K702, I did have a set of optimos on my old mini (set of 4 for £100 delivered) They were pretty decent quiet and good grip. I only picked these up on ebay as I was in dire need of a good pair and couldn't find the Firestones to match the rears.
Will need to give the car a once over this weekend but have been enjoying festive nights out all week and have been a little worse for it they are also trying to get us out on overtime for the storm damage.
MOT is on Tuesday I expect a few advisory points but fingers crossed because it is freezing up here.
Colin
The Hankooks are K702, I did have a set of optimos on my old mini (set of 4 for £100 delivered) They were pretty decent quiet and good grip. I only picked these up on ebay as I was in dire need of a good pair and couldn't find the Firestones to match the rears.
Will need to give the car a once over this weekend but have been enjoying festive nights out all week and have been a little worse for it
they are also trying to get us out on overtime for the storm damage.MOT is on Tuesday I expect a few advisory points but fingers crossed because it is freezing up here.
Colin