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Blockbuster by The Sweet for my one. Good job it wasn't several months later in 1973 - Gary Glitter at no.1! :shock:

Don't risk cracking the screen if the rubber is shot and you plan to replace it. Get a nice sharp Stanley knife and cut the front face of the rubber away from the screen to make removal less fraught.

viewtopic.php?f=7&t=9492&hilit=heater&start=15#p77004 Try this one too.

I would personally avoid. There is no way on earth these will look straight and crisp if stuck over the existing vinyl. Plus the existing vinyl has a sewn horizontal line near the top of the trim that would be absent. I had 2 new rear cards made up in plywood, upholstered in the original vinyl...

I thought it was so you could get your fingers in to retrieve the rad drain plug when you unscrew it and it drops into the deepest recesses of the front valance. :shock:

I have pondered the same question as I have lost my garage and the old girl has sat outside since mid 2012. There are a couple of minor paint peelers that need sorting but nothing major as I did fully overhaul the old girl. I have owned her over 20 years and if I let her go there is a risk that...

The re-build of the house needs to be completed first. Unfortunately cost is a factor - I am looking to build a triple garage 70m sq.

1973 Rover P6 seeks dry garage in the Chelmsford, Essex area for companionship, whilst his master gets the old, leaky garage demolished and the new one up. Might be needed for a year or two. RSVP. :mrgreen:

A nice car, but it has recently suffered from the dreaded clutch slave cylinder failure! The slave cylinder on the 75 is located within the gearbox bellhousing, which means major surgery - n/s suspension leg off, subframe down and gearbox drained and dropped down. A nice man from the 75 forum...

Following the birth of our first son, Elliot, in March this year, my Mrs has now commandeered the company car (Merc C220 CDTi) to ferry the little man around, given this has the Isofix seat fixings in the rear. At the weekend, I picked up a genuine 60,000 mile diesel Rover 75 Classic on a 06...

It is possible that the pin worked its way out from one side and then not being supported both ends, moved at an angle, jamming the actuation lever. I had this happen to me but it didn't break the pump. It was cured by getting a new pin made up with a circlip groove each end. The factory...

Ron has the holy grail! The thing is that many of the chrome covers and innards are in a fine condition, so it is just the outer rubber seal that is needed, not the whole unit. I will drop a line to Mark Gray to see if he would consider manufacturing a run of these seals.

The rubber seal between rear number plate light unit and bumper - "Rockin' 'orse shyte, mate!"

I certainly would be interested to hear more from Vaultsman as to how much difference he believes the uprated bar has made.

Thanks guys. A clean up and a very small top up of fluid was all that was needed. Now I just need to sort out the non functioning fuel and temp gauge and the lack of IGN and OIL warning lights when the key is turned to the 2nd position. Oh and the non functioning clock...

Took wires off cap tonight and the problem vanished! I did replace the float some years ago but will prise the centre off the cap to see what is going on with the float/terminals therein.

Time for a thread bump. Just noticed the lacquer is starting to peel off the ends of my cappings now. I can't believe 6 years has passed since I fitted these, so I suppose I can't grumble too much. I may revert back to the old formica. What are the contemporary views?

Thanks guys. I will take the wires off the reservoir cap and go from there. My car seems to have been struck down by a number of electrical maladies as of late.

Fluid level is good and I did replace the cork float with one of those rubber corks from a modern wine bottle <hic>. I tried it last night - ignition on, engine not running, car stationary. Brake pedal pressed - like comes on. Release pedal, press pedal again - no light. Release pedal, push...

This has just started to flick on and off, albeit intermittently. Seems to happen when the brake pedal is pressed (even if car stationary) but not always - it does flick on and off on the move when the foot isn't on the brake. Pads have max 3000 miles wear on them. I haven't had the chance to...

The mathematics will provide an indication, but given this is a composite bar, a spring constant for the entire bar (with the machined ends) would need to be calculated, not just that for the circular section. The proof of the pudding etc. is in the driving. I may be wrong but I just got the...

Any further news on this? I am getting the impression that the up rated ARB is not quite living up to expectations. Does it really make a discernible difference sufficient to splurge £100+ in the hope that the magic jelly ride may be tamed?

I bought my S2 V8 in July 1994 - yikes almost 20 years ago! :shock:

I can empathise with that one. I had my autobox rebuilt in 1994 by what appeared to be a troupe (if that is the collective, if not it sounds good) of slow-witted simians, masquerading as autobox specialists, in a premises in Laindon, Essex. Tossers managed to dent the rear wing and overtighten...

A true inspiration - I shall be following this closely!